3 Tips for a Perfect Fitting Winter Coat January 06 2015

We talked to three experts who know a thing or two about how a coat should fit.

Brunello Cucinelli
Fashion Designer
"The easiest fix a tailor can make to a coat is to take in the waist—it will instantly give it more shape. The length is also very important. A coat should hit right above the knee."

Brian Trunzo
Co-Owner of Carson Street Clothiers
"The traditional rule of sleeve length is that it should hit at the base of the thumb, but I like to have it a little higher—a centimeter and a half or two—so you can see the cuff. I don't mind if it's a little shorter than what the old guard says is right. But know that the shoulder is the death knell: If it doesn't fit you in the shoulders, you're in trouble. It's possible to trim down a shoulder, but it's labor-intensive and expensive, and so few tailors are going to be able to do it, it's just not worth your time."

Joseph Ting
Details' New York City Tailor
"The only thing that can't be fixed is if the coat is small—you won't have enough seam allowance to open it up. Also, I often taper the sleeves. When you look at a coat from the side, the whole thing looks better if the sleeve is slimmer."